Only thing I can think of is melting it out. What do the guys suggest?

 

I always use a brass punch if the case head isn't there. Just take the die apart,and secure it in a vice,then tap out the shell body with the brass punch.

 

I always use a brass punch if the case head isn't there. Just take the die apart,and secure it in a vice,then tap out the shell body with the brass punch.

The bottom end (where the primer once was held) is now 'gone'

 

The bottom end (where the primer once was held) is now 'gone'

Yes,You need to disassemble the top end of the die,remove the sizing pin,and knock the rest of the case back out the bottom of the die with a brass punch.

 

What brand die? If its a Dillon send it in and they will warrantee it. If you try to melt it out you will undoubtedly ruin it completely. Brass melts at around 1700 degrees. That's pretty hot.

 

Yes,You need to disassemble the top end of the die,remove the sizing pin,and knock the rest of the case back out the bottom of the die with a brass punch.

What does the tip of the die touch as I am smacking the other end? (there is a huge hole on the bottom end of the brass)


And thanks for the help

 

What brand die? If its a Dillon send it in and they will warrantee it. If you try to melt it out you will undoubtedly ruin it completely. Brass melts at around 1700 degrees. That's pretty hot.

it is an RCBS 2 stage type rifle die, It was the resizing die with the decapper pin. The decapper part is removed now, so bow I am stuck with just the die shell/housing part, and a piece of brass that doesnt budge.

 

You can't hit the top/neck of the case with a punch? It will bend if you hit it,and you should be able to knock it back out.
If not,you can always send the die to RCBS,and they will remove the case.

I've always been able to get 223 brass knocked back out with a brass punch,a 30/06 shouldn't be much harder to do.

 

Yes,You need to disassemble the top end of the die,remove the sizing pin,and knock the rest of the case back out the bottom of the die with a brass punch.

Does the tapered part of the punch point rest on the throat of the brass? (guessing)

 

Does the tapered part of the punch point rest on the throat of the brass? (guessing)

I use a small round brass punch that is flat on the end. Set it on the top edge of the case,and hit it,then do it again 180* from the first strike,and repeat.
If you use a brass punch,it won't damage the die at all,so you don't have to worry about that.

 

I use a small round brass punch that is flat on the end. Set it on the top edge of the case,and hit it,then do it again 180* from the first strike,and repeat.
If you use a brass punch,it won't damage the die at all,so you don't have to worry about that.

Thank you for the suggestion TX, tomorrow I shall go look for a brass punch in the store and give it a try. So far everything I have done doesn't do a thing for it.

 

If can get a brass punch that is .308" in diameter I imagine it would work?

 

It is usually impossible to knock these out. The RCBS stuck case remover will remove the case without damage to the die.

 

I interpret this to mean the entire base is separated from the body. It will need to go in to RCBS. They will either fix it or replace it

 

If the head of the case is missing a standard broken shell remover for a rifle will remove the brass. It sounds however that the flash hole is reamed out. A stuck case remover uses a 1/4" tap and screw to remove the case.

 

Is the rim damaged, or is it missing?

A simple way that works well is to put the die in the freezer for a bit, then place back into press and simply punch it back out.

You can purchase a stuck die remover, or simply make one with a socket a nut and bolt. You tube for an instruction, a visual on how to make one is easier than for me to try and explain how to make it.

Morale of story learn to properly lube your brass before sizing I recommend a tin of Imperial Die Wax

 

You need a RCBS "stuck case" removal tool.

 

Stuck case removal tool will not help if the entire case head is gone

 

Stuck case removal tool will not help if the entire case head is gone

If the entire case head is missing, I would send the die back to the manufacturer and let them do it rather than take a chance on damaging the die.

 

Humm? With shipping cost? Is a used die that has possible damage really worth returning?

 

I have used a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled out several 223 cases when the entire head is missing. I worked the smooth side of the pliers between the case wall and die. I have been careful and I have not had any problems using the die afterwards. Your choice to ship back or try using a softer metal tool to remove.

 

If you just use USPS it shouldn't cost very much to send it back. They return it at their cost. I believe it would be well under the cost of a new die (except maybe one from Lee, but I won't buy any more of their dies.)

 

I just checked. USPS padded envelope (I think that is the best way to send it????) is $5.95 anywhere in the US. That's even cheaper than a Lee die!

I actually have several sets of dies, so when something like this happens I can swap out my die and keep reloading, then try to remember to send in the stuck die. If you can afford it this is definitely the way to go. Oh yeah, and don't be cheap on the case lube! I use Dillons.

 

Thanks everyone for the help and tips. I have been super busy with work and haven't had the opportunity to go to the store and buy a brass punch thingy. I am thinking on first trying the freezing it method and then immediately putting it back into the press and give it a slick whack. I have tried to use some thin needle nose pliers but couldn't get it under the edge to try it. I have already bought a new die, and 'snuck' it into my fathers die box after I proceeded to mangle the brass in trying to remove it down home. I have my own 30.06 dies up here at the college so I can and have been able to continue to reload. (I even managed to do my first military 30.06 brass and reamed out the primer pocket to make the primers fit. All worked well on that end) If I can save the stuck die then I'll have me a back up. ).

Thanks again for the suggestions and I'll keep you posted on if I was able to save it or if I had to put it down.

 

I'm with TXHillbilly on this one. I have removed many a stuck cases with that method.

http://www.sears.com/wheeler-brass-punch-set/p-SPM7598560510?prdNo=16&blockNo=16&blockType=G16

You might even be able to find a set even cheaper at Harbor Freight Tools.

you want to catch the lip of the case mouth and then slowly hit it moving the punch around the case mouth till it comes out. then next time put more spray lube on the cases.